Oscar Heyman necklace created with no fewer than 60 important colored gems Oscar Heyman The Centurion Show for luxury retailers and luxury jewelry manufacturers and designers is the first U.S. jewelry trade fair of the year. It pretty much sets the tone for the types of jewels that will be presented to consumers for the year. The dominate theme this year was creatively designed jewels made with colored gems, followed by diamond jewels for engagement rings, wedding bands and large statement pieces. This year’s invitation only show held February 2 – 4 at the Phoenix Biltmore resort attracted buyers from than more than 330 retail businesses who viewed products and services from more than 250 companies. Both are records for the trade show, which just completed its 24th year. Colored Gemstone Jewels Color was certainly trending at the fair. Even a few traditional diamond-centric brands showed that they are willing to delve into color. Varsha Diamonds ring from the "Candy Color" collection Varsha Diamonds One of them is Varsha Diamonds, which unveiled a new “Color Candy" jewelry collection using a mix of gemstones such as amethyst, garnet, blue topaz and citrine, set in 14k gold or 14k gold plated silver. “Color is an important part of contemporary fashion and the growth in the colored gemstone segment of the market over the last few years has prompted our retail partners to ask for more colorful jewelry designs,” said Nick Mehta, CEO of Varsha Diamonds. MORE FOR YOU Apple Confirms The New Phone Isn’t iPhone SE 4 But iPhone 16e Trump Administration Reverses Layoffs At These Federal Agencies—After Accidentally Cutting Bird Flu, Nuclear Staff Apple iPhone 16e Release Date Confirmed: Your Schedule For The Newest iPhone A multi-gem necklace by Gumuchian Anthony DeMarco New York-based jewelry brand, Gumuchian, also known for its diamond jewels, presented the “Spectrum” collection featuring two-stone toi et moi (you and me) rings and drop earrings, with a mix of colored gams and diamonds. In addition, the popular jewelry brand presented an immense necklace adorned with colored gems. No doubt companies want to diversify their product offerings but also it reflects the ongoing decline in natural diamond demand caused primarily by the emergence of less expensive lab-grown diamonds. Mark Henry cabochon pink tourmaline bracelet Mark Henry Jewelry Many designers at the show have always worked with colored gems. Fine jewelry brand, Mark Henry Jewelry, known for jewels with precious and rare gemstones, has ventured into semi-precious gemstones with the launch of a new capsule collection unveiled at the Centurion Show. The new pieces feature cabochon cut pink and green tourmalines, moonstones, 18K gold and diamonds. Colorful "Alexa" bracelets by Bellarri Fine jewelry brand, Bellarri, founded by designer Bellarri Adleman, has a solid reputation for its designer jewels crafted with colorful gems. The company introduced two collections: “Luna,” which features a pendant with graduated fancy cut Rhodolite gemstones set in 14k white gold, and “Alexa,” which features stacking bangles using numerous multicolor gemstone cuts and shapes set in 14k rose, yellow, and white gold. Lisa Nik gemstone necklace Lisa Nik, founded by Lisa Nikfarjam, specializes in colored gem-set jewels, in which each piece is potentially unique because each gemstone is different. Perhaps, her big reveal at Centurion was a multi-colored gemstones necklace using gemstones of various shapes and textures. Nikfarjam says she is also doing more with opals, taking advantage of its color-changing properties. Goshwara Opal earrings Another company leaning into opals is Goshwara, a New York-based jewelry designer led by Sweta Jain, whose family from Jaipur, India, has a long history in the colored gemstone business. In addition, the company was presenting is collection of animal jewels called “Ark,” with multi-colored gems set in yellow gold. Tresor necklace paved with emeralds and diamonds Another U.S.-based jewelry designer brand with a long history in India is Tresor. The company is managed by Puja Bordia, who represents 18 generations of a family-owned company that deals in rough and polished colored gems. One piece was an open ended necklace with rounded teardrop shaped ends paved with emeralds and diamonds. Italian Jewels Italian jewelry brands as usual came out in force at the Centurion Show with pieces featuring fine gold craftsmanship along with colored gems and diamonds combined in stylish designs. Annamaria Cammilli Hypnose ring Annamaria Cammilli Probably no one can combine artistic creativity with fine craftsmanship like Annamaria Cammilli. The brand’s new collection, “Hypnose,” features sweeping curves and enveloping shapes to produce jewels that are sculptural and fluid. The brand specializes in its unique use of gold, producing at least six proprietary gold colors and finishing the precious metal in silky textures. The jewels in this collection are framed by a delicate diamond border. The Chimento Armillas Glow 18k gold ring with malachite New pieces from well-known Italian brand, Chimento, include Armilla Glow, which features rings and pendants with smooth circular curved finishes, either in polished gold or with gemstones such as malachite. Miseno Baia Sommersa bracelet in white gold set with diamonds, yellow sapphires and lapis Miseno presented several pieces in geometric patterns using 18k gold and gemstones such the Baia Sommersa bracelet set with diamonds, yellow sapphires and lapis lazuli in a hexagon patterns. Picchiotti Chandelier earrings Among several collections presented by Picchiotti, is “Chandelier,” which includes necklaces, earrings and rings with diamond-haloed oval and cushion-shaped sapphires connected by diamond links. Baraka gold and carbon fiber bracelets for men Men’s jewelry may be having a moment but Italian jewelry brand Barakà has always specialized in this niche since the company was founded in 1975. Its pieces are masculine and bold and designed for men who are looking for distinctive ways of expressing themselves. High Jewelry There are not many trade shows that attract high jewelry houses as exhibitors. These firms often tend to present their pieces privately to retailers or consumers. Centurion is one of the exceptions. One such jeweler, is Oscar Heyman, which came well prepared with gemstone and diamond creations crafted in the company’s workshop in New York. The family-owned firm is more than 110 years old, and its pieces have been worn by celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor over the years. A necklace on display was created with no fewer than 60 important colored gems—including emeralds, sapphires and rubies—in various shapes and sizes (top photo). Robert Procop ring centered with 5.92-carat hexagon-shaped Montana sapphire Robert Procop Robert Procop, who owns and operates an eponymous private high jewelry house in Beverly Hills, Calif., was a first-time exhibitor at Centurion. He brought collectible museum quality creations such as a 106.20-carat oval translucent light-blue Mozambique Paraiba, named “The Magnificent”; along with more consumer-friendly high jewelry pieces made with rare, high-quality aquamarines and Montana sapphires. Rahaminov Diamonds Sofia Lariat necklace in 18k white gold set with 34.29 carats of diamonds Rahaminov Diamonds High jewelry brand, Rahaminov Diamonds, is known for its creations that regularly appear on red carpets worn by the biggest names in entertainment. A standout among the pieces at Centurion was a multi-tiered necklace Sofia Lariat 18k white gold necklace set with 34.29 carats of round cut diamonds in F and G color and VS and SI clarity. Diamond Jewelry Centurion remains an important show diamond jewelry brands and loose diamond manufacturers. In fact, one of the two halls in the Phoenix Biltmore resort is largely dedicated to these companies. Several exhibitors featured a variety of bridal jewels featuring traditional and contemporary designs. Tacori 3-stone diamond ring from the Simple Tacori collection Among them is luxury diamond jewelry brand, Tacori, a Glendale, Calif., company that specializes in bridal and high-end fashion pieces. It is best known for its signature crescent motifs on its bands. The company, despite the decline in diamond demand, is defiantly doubling down on its use of diamonds, purposely going against the trend of solitaire rings on thin bands to create something more robust and more personal. In fact, they say bold, unique and personal is what couples are looking for today. One way it is meeting this demand and defying trends is focusing on three-stone diamond rings while adding its own twist by combining different-shaped diamonds. Verragio “ring embellisher,” for its Vanguard diamond ring collection Bridal jewelry specialist, Verragio, has expanded its “Vanguard” ring collection with a “ring embellisher,” a ring jacket that holds the center ring securely in place. They can be worn solo or with a center commitment ring or wedding band. They are sold as designer sets with new engagement rings or wedding bands of similar designs. They can also be worn with Verragio fashion rings. Shah Luxury used diamond to embellished a golf putter Shah Luxury Shah Luxury, a jewelry manufacturer based in India and New York, specializes in producing customized pieces and brands for their retail partners. Recently, the company started using diamonds in creative ways to customize other accessories, like oversized caps, sunglasses and sneakers. The company even added diamond highlights to a golf putter. Sethi Couture stackable "Shadow" rings Sethi Couture Stackable jewelry remains popular and Sethi Couture has become known in this niche with its stackable diamond and 18k gold jewels. A great example is a grouping of the brand’s Shadow rings with various-shaped diamonds in yellow and white gold. Elegant Smiling Rocks necklace with lab-grown diamonds and natural sapphires Smiling Rocks Lab grown diamond brand, Smiling Rocks, has elevated these man-made gems to luxury status, says co-founder, Zulu Ghevriya, through innovated designs and applications. One creative application of these diamonds at Centurion was the use of a necklace that combined round lab-grown diamonds with round natural orange sapphires, which he says shows that lab-grown gems can coexist with natural gems. Follow me on LinkedIn. Editorial StandardsForbes Accolades