In her book, Dunlop cites one of her readers suggesting that Beijing could more effectively project its soft power by "changing its controversial overseas Confucius Institutes into top-notch Chinese restaurants". Beijing is battling plenty on the international front: Trump's tariffs, alleged espionage plots and a world that is wary of its economic might. Even this explosion in Chinese restaurant chains is worrying local businesses in Singapore who wonder if they can keep up. Stiff competition in China and a spending dip are forcing these chains offshore. And their pace of expansion is insatiable – they bring with them a reliable supply chain, marketing acumen, and deep pockets that allow them to sacrifice profit. And they have a playbook. First you are encouraged to sign up for a free membership that gets you a discount. The meals come with a free flow of tea, dipping sauces and pickled vegetables. The winner? Unlike in most Singaporean restaurants, tissues – much-needed after a spicy meal – are free. It is not the first time the exports of China's success have sparked anxiety in its smaller South East Asian neighbours. It has already happened with plenty of Chinese imports, from clothing to gadgets. But food, some believe, can sweeten that deal. "Chinese people take great pride in their culinary culture, which also serves as a powerful form of diplomacy," says Felix Ren, director of Singapore-based food consultancy WeMedia. He is encouraged by the table tennis matches that helped thaw historic tensions between Beijing and Washington in 1971. "Chinese cuisine," he says, "may just be the new ping-pong diplomacy."