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Munster fans in La Rochelle.Ben Brady/INPHO
Gaillimh's song, Zebo chants, the Red Army, and beautiful Bordeaux
This weekend in France was what rugby is all about.
6.31am, 7 Apr 2025
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Murray Kinsella
Reports from Bordeaux
YOU KNOW THINGS have really kicked off when you see the great Mick Galwey on top of a forklift leading a group of Munster fans in a rendition of Zombie outside the Stade Marcel Deflandre.
Gaillimh was holding a Munster flag in each hand as the words of the Cranberries’ classic spilled from his smiling lips, the former lock clearly loving life with about 90 minutes to go until kick-off in what proved to be one of the province’s great Champions Cup wins.
To be fair, it was clear that it was going to be a special occasion from Friday at Dublin Airport.
The evening flight out to Nantes was packed with Munster fans and one big group of lads started the singing as they queued up for boarding. An unfortunate gentleman passing by in Leinster gear was given a merciless slagging.
The same crew of Munster lads soon spotted Simon Zebo on the stairs up to the plane and we got the first rendition of ‘Zeeebo, Zeeebo, Zeeebo.’ They barely let up for the 90-minute flight, calling on Zebo for a few waves that he happily delivered.
By the time everyone made it to La Rochelle on Saturday morning, it was clear that something special was happening. Munster have mobilised in remarkable numbers many times before and this was the latest chapter in that history.
Wandering around the picturesque Vieux Port in La Rochelle with the sun rising into clear blue skies, you could sense the day would be a memorable one. The quaint old market was abuzz from the early hours, Peter O’Mahony and a few Munster players passing through on the search for good coffee. They were encouraged and applauded, but supporters knew this wasn’t the time to be bothering them.
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The craic levels rose quickly as red-clad visitors took over the bars and restaurants lining the quays. The locals helped to lift the atmosphere by planning their annual Carnaval de La Rochelle for the same day as Munster’s visit, with a colourful parade featuring a brass band, drummers, and a few floats.
Munster fans with Craig Casey.Billy Stickland / INPHO
Billy Stickland / INPHO / INPHO
Alongside the music in the parade came the growing volume of The Fields of Athenry from Munster fans who were increasingly feeling the optimism about what was to come at Stade Marcel Deflandre. By 3.30pm, three hours before kick-off, there were a few Munster fans with tops off roaring at the top of their lungs and soaking in the sun.
When the crowd strolled on out to the stadium, a sun-soaked walk along the water, Gaillimh and co. set the tone. The Munster players descended from their team bus into madness as they got a real taste of how their fans had arrived in their droves.
To their credit, La Rochelle’s brilliant supporters did their best to drown the visitors out. This was a real battle in the stands even before the action got underway. The red crew launched into ‘Munster, Munster, Munster’ before the home crowd responded with ‘Ici, ici, c’est La Rochelle.’
Neither side let up for the duration, playing their part in a memorable match that was watched with interest by Ulster supporters 180km south in Bordeaux, where they had arrived ahead of Sunday’s clash with UBB.
The Ulster fans packed into the Connemara Pub, which is apparently owned by a Belfast man and was where Irish football fans flocked during the 2016 Euros. It was jam-packed when Ireland played Romania at the 2023 Rugby World Cup too, and it was full of Ulster supporters on Saturday night, all of them willing Munster on.
Not that Munster were short of encouragement in the flesh at Stade Marcel Deflandre, where there were around 3,000 of the Red Army. The final whistle brought joyous scenes as players sought out family and friends, Jack Crowley pulled over the advertising hoarding by a group including Zebo, Alex Nankivell, and Shane Daly.
Munster flew home last night with a big group of their supporters, while others continued the celebrations around the bars of La Rochelle, with Irish pubs McNulty’s and the General Humbert’s busy firing out pints.
It was onwards to Bordeaux early this morning for those still on the clock and it was another cracking experience at the grand old Stade Chaban Delmas, which looks like it’s creaking but is charming for its history.
Ulster fans in Bordeaux.Ben Brady / INPHO
Ben Brady / INPHO / INPHO
Bordeaux welcomed another sell-out crowd of more than 32,000 and it was a reminder that UBB also have superb fans. They gather at Place Johnston outside the stadium before every game and form a tunnel for the players to walk through. Tunes were pumping, flags were being waved, and as Joey Carbery strolled through, you got another perspective on why he is enjoying this French experience so much.
Those Munster fans who are lucky enough to be able to arrange the trip to Bordeaux on such short notice are in for a real treat this weekend. The Bordeaux fans sing and chant relentlessly.
While Ulster didn’t have a fairytale ending, this was yet another magical weekend in France.
It’s always stirring to see friends and family travelling together to these rugby games and making memories that can last a lifetime.
It’s safe to say that many of these Munster fans will talk about ‘that time’ in La Rochelle with fondness and joy many years from now. Bonds of friendship and kinship are strengthened on the road on trips like this one.
This weekend in France was what rugby is all about.
Murray Kinsella
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