If Roy Brett was a sea creature he’d be a barnacle. He had his restaurant on Edinburgh’s George IV Bridge for nearly 16 years, and he clung on with total tenacity, even though there were problems with the building’s cladding that meant that scaffolding had to be up for five years. I mean, it’s still there and continues to look a mess. For most of that time, you’d hardly know that there was a restaurant (and a hotel, the Radisson) behind the hoarding. Any less hardy chef would’ve thrown in the tea towel ages ago. He didn’t, until they recently told him that further problems with the building would mean it’d have to close for a spell. And, so, Brett, who also has The Fishmarket in Edinburgh’s Newhaven, has shipped out and is on the lookout for another home in the capital. In the meantime, you can also find him at his new Ondine venue in St Andrews. It’s inside the glorious new five-star hotel, Seaton House. And, my goodness, he has swapped a grim view for a captivating one out to West Sands beach and the Old Course, from the vantage point of this honey-coloured Victorian building. The dining room is such a beautiful space, in pristine cream, with a turquoise-tiled marble oyster bar that’s topped with bottles of Tabasco. Those who were regulars to Edinburgh’s Ondine, will recognise parts of the menu. The fish goujons, for example, which my other half ordered for this starter. Brett has taken a simple and kiddy-ish treat (£21), and gussied it up for adults, with four sea-salted and panko-crumbed russet boomerangs of haddock and a vinegary, hot and limey sour Vietnamese dip on the side. While my other half finished that, I had the Wye Valley asparagus (£23) - a dish that had been elevated to something sybaritic that should’ve been eaten, spear by decadent spear, in a bubble bath. Or better, someone feed it to me. The veg had been sloshed in warm butter, with a chiffonade of chives, and there was a large dollop of Hollandaise on the side. No ordinary stuff though. This was fluffed up, so it coated each green spear with luxury yolky-coloured suds. We had three mains next. It’s been a while since I’ve visited Ondine, so why not go loco? Mine was the lemon sole menueire (£38), which can be served on or off the bone. I went for the lazy girl’s option, and the two slabs of fish arrived on top of each other, like a double mattress. They were golden and caramelised along their edges, and the meat was doused in an ocean’s worth of brown butter and a gazillion tiny non-pareil capers. While I nibbled at this, my other half focused on the burlier monkish au poivre (£36), which had been treated like a steak, with its accompanying and very punchy peppercorn sauce, some spinach, a lemon wedge and curls of zest on top. Main course number three was the hand-dived Orkney scallops (£36), which were the biggest I’ve ever had. Each pearlescent monster was about the size of a scone. They were utterly delightful, especially with a dab of the accompanying bacon jam, which was rich and oniony. We shared a couple of their sides - crispy and salty medium-girth fries (£7) and some more spinach (£7), except this batch had been topped with pale Parmesan gratings and nutmeg. And sloshed with yet more butter, naturally. After all that artery-coating indulgence, we opted to share the lightest-sounding pudding, from choices that included Basque cheesecake and strawberry compote (£14), or chocolate and hazelnut ganache with creme fraiche (£14). I think we did the right thing, as the strawberry and blueberry sorbet (£14) was just what you want after a fishy and buttery feast. As well as a handful of raspberries, there were two vibrantly coloured golf-ball-sized spheres - one pale pink, and the other a vampiric magenta - of intense palate-clearing and sugar-boosting fruity-ness. Perfect. I’ve eaten in a lot of great St Andrews restaurants, but this place is easily my favourite. It’s not just the food, but also those views - I mean, this has got to be the top seat in town - as well as the service, plush interior, and general sense of occasion. I can’t think of anywhere better to be. I almost wish I could cling on and never leave, like a Roy-Brett-style barnacle. Ondine, Seaton House, 76 The Scores, St Andrews (01334 796 700, www.seatonhouse.com)