Think of Shaikpet, and the images that come to mind are gated communities, apartments, and endless traffic. What lies behind the façade of modernization is an area that first came into prominence around the 16th century, where one of the most venerated Sufi saints of the Deccan is buried, and being located on the highway of Bidar was an important stop for the travelers to Golconda.A walk organised by Deccan Archive showcased the many facets of this bustling city area. People from all walks of life joined together on a sultry evening (armed with water bottles) to explore this historic area. The Sufis and their stories The evening started with a visit to the dargah of Hazrat Hussain Shah Wali, a revered Sufi saint of Golconda during the rule of the Qutb Shahi dynasty in the 16th century. Belonging to the lineage of one of Deccan’s most revered Sufi saints, Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz of Gulbarga, Hussain Sagar was named after him. Even today, the dargah remains a symbol of old-world architecture. Flanked by two naqqar khanas (literally translating into drum houses) on either side of the entrance arch, it is a small bastion of peace in an otherwise crowded locality. The Nazar ki kasthi (the place of offerings inside) is a long bowl shaped in the form of a parrot with signages of a tiger and peacock. One highlight is the crown of the arch (seen on the dome of the dargah), shaped like a torch, which represented the burning spirit of the kingdom! Located near this shrine is the tomb of another Sufi, Hazrat Meeran Hussaini (built around the late 1600s), whose blessing was believed to be the reason Aurangzeb conquered the Deccan. While his grave rests between two rocks, a highlight here is the sculpture of the dog flanked at the entrance, a symbol of its undying loyalty and protection to its master! A stone’s throw away is a stunning audience hall that is believed to have come up later, and though it functions as a cricket ground now, it is arresting in its striking geometry and simplicity. A serai to savour The final stop of the heritage walk was the magnificent Shaikpet serai. A serai means an inn or a caravansary, providing lodging and shelter for travellers. This serai was the halt for travellers en route to the Golconda Fort and a sprawling space with 32 rooms, and is a double-story structure (an anomaly during the time). Even today, all one hears inside is the birdsong, a sharp contrast from the street full of cacophony. Under renovation currently, the stunning rest house was used by tired travellers to recharge themselves with amenities including a place of worship, a watering hole (a well that no longer exists), and stables for horses and elephants. Built around the 1630s, the mosque on the premises has verses of mirrored calligraphy with beautiful stucco motifs ranging from flowers to Persian carpets embossed on it. It is bordered by the tomb of Shah Khundkar, another exquisite structure in stone flanked by drop-down pillars, all vestiges of the architectural beauty of a time gone by. The Past and the Present The locality is the very microcosm of Hyderabad. Ugly buildings sauntering into frames of decorative minarets and unhindered construction mar the beauty of ancient precincts, while motorbikes and cars whizz past tombs that have stood witness to empires rising and falling. Perhaps a walk in the area will share a lesson for all of us — that progress need not come at the cost of heritage and that there is room enough for both history and high-rises under same sky.