By Aymeric Dognin – French Expat in Papua New Guinea from 2021 Mount Giluwe, Southern Highlands Province – April 2025 Suddenly, the light in the cabin dims. The sky darkens and clouds gather. The folds of the land, like a blanket thrown carelessly, become more frequent. Then, after crossing high mountains, a vast plain opens up before us. Just when it feels like we’re entering the heart of a storm, a ray of sunshine breaks through, sweeping the clouds away. It’s a reflection of this land of contrasts — always ready to surprise us. We arrive on the evening flight with PNG Air and are about to land in Mount Hagen. In the distance, the slopes of Mount Giluwe, in the Southern Highlands Province — the highest volcanic peak in Oceania and the country’s second-highest summit — trace a horizon line as majestic as it is untamed. On Thursday, April 17, I join a 10-person group organized by 501 Tours / Sogeri Hikers, founded and led by Kevin Rau, a passionate community leader with a love for hiking and ecotourism. The purpose is not only to climb Mount Giluwe but also to immerse myself in a truly cultural experience. I am a 43-year-old Frenchman, father of two, living in Papua New Guinea since September 2021. My wife works for a large European company. As for me, I spent the first three years here in the Communications department of the same company. Upon our arrival, I was eager to explore this fascinating country from within — a land that, where I come from, is still little known and often referred to by some as the “last frontier.” It boasts exuberant nature, a rare cultural diversity with more than 860 languages spoken, and traditions that remain deeply ingrained in daily life. A Tourism with Purpose I have had the privilege of exploring several regions, each unique: Milne Bay, the provinces of New Britain and the northern part of New Ireland, the Eastern Highlands with the stunning Goroka festival, the ascent of Mount Wilhelm (Simbu Province), and more recently, Mount Giluwe (Southern Highlands Province). Through this testimony, I want to offer the perspective of a Western traveler on a country that has left a profound impact on me. I am convinced that Papua New Guinea has everything it needs to become a leading destination for sustainable and equitable tourism — as long as the key pillars are preserved: the environment, local communities, and traditional knowledge. In 2024, European visitors accounted for around 8% of international arrivals in Papua New Guinea, according to the International Visitor Survey published by the Pacific Tourism Organisation. While this figure is still modest, it reveals significant potential for growth. Europe remains a promising niche market, particularly in the fields of adventure tourism, hiking, culture, and history. Europeans are often drawn to the beauty of the landscapes, trekking trails, and various cultural expressions. Tourism can be a powerful lever for preserving cultures and ecosystems. It can offer rural communities the opportunity to live dignified lives on their land, by welcoming travelers in search of authenticity and real encounters. Inspiring Local Initiatives The challenges are real: difficult access to certain areas, occasional insecurity, lack of infrastructure… Yet, many local initiatives show a strong commitment. I think of Betty, Ruth, Kevin, Sheryl, Solomon, Roger, Helen — and many others — who, each in their own way, are developing sustainable projects: fish farms, eco-lodges, community hikes, historical tours…All of these are small local revolutions. As our stay draws to a close, I feel a new responsibility: to testify, to share this exceptional country. As a communicator, a travel enthusiast, but most of all, as a grateful friend of Papua New Guinea. Ambassador of a Land of Hospitality Back in France, I will continue to champion its beauty, inviting others to discover it with respect and humility. For, if it wishes, PNG can become a sanctuary: a land where untouched nature and living traditions still coexist, provided we accompany them with discernment. ABOUT THE AUTHORAymeric DogninFormer communications manager for a large European company in PNG, passionate about travel and sustainable tourism, he has been working with local tourism actors since 2021. He now collaborates with guides, lodges, and Papuan associations to raise awareness of a different image of Papua New Guinea in Europe.