It is a star-studded Paris Fashion Week that has brought Hollywood to the City of Lights for nine days. Screaming crowds waiting to see A-listers like Rooney Mara, Diane Kruger, Gemma Chan, Kim Cattrall and others enter and exit shows, creates high-paced energy that’s mesmerizing to all. The autumn-winter 2025 season includes styles that can be glamorous red carpet wears for the Cannes Film Festival and big events for later in the year. A noticeable trend of formality contrasts with silhouettes that exude freedom of movement. The beginning of the week was launched with the Grand Dîner du Louvre that brought Oscar-winning actress Michelle Yeoh, “The Walking Dead” star Danai Gurira and models Gigi Hadid and Barbara Palvin to the lit-up glass pyramids at The Louvre, to open the “Louvre Couture” exhibition, with many calling it a type of pre-Met Gala event. In addition to the shows and dinners were parties like the Thierry Lasry x Pressiat event where fashion and sunglasses came together. The coveted brand worn by Beyoncé, Katy Perry, Kate Moss and others wowed guests with their stunning Elvis like frames. The brand Casablanca held an afterparty a few hours after their show that saw a large turnout. And shoe brand Camperlab opened a new store on Monday night at 15 Rue Debelleyme. Sitting front row at the Casablanca show were Eva Apio, Emili Sindlev, Clara Berry and others. Creative director Charaf Tajer was inspired by the counter-cultural versus the establishment, particularly the dualities and contradictions of Japan — especially having visited many times over the last 20 years. Quite simply, the collection is a love letter to Japan, its youth, its culture, its identity and its life. And this wasn’t the first time Casablanca has been inspired by Japan. Tajer has focused on the country twice in another collection. Exquisite tailoring inspired by traditional Japanese wear and industrial workwear uniforms are seen in the silhouettes. There’re also some skiwear items mixed into the collection, along with iced knits, and actual skis made by Swiss ski brand Faction. The Blooming sakura Cherry Blossom, the national flower of Japan, is etched on evening dresses in wool-satin, biker jackets and on jewelry. Extreme Cashmere x Miele Extreme Cashmere and Miele came together to host the world’s first cashmere spa, showing visitors what taking care of luxury garments should look like. Extreme Cashmere’s clothing is genderless and unisize, and has an ethos of creating long lasting clothing in classic styles. Miele, meanwhile, has over 100 years of setting the mark for laundry care, with its iconic honeycomb drum. As visitors arrived, they were met by French faire of an on-site chef making salads and quiche, as well as serving fresh strawberries and passion fruit. Towards the back was an immersive experience of understanding the art of garment care. The all pink room showed guests how to preserve clothing from washing, drying, ironing and folding. In a push back against fast consumption, visitors were reminded that in each step of caring for clothes is a way to appreciate craftsmanship. IB Kamara outdid himself with Off-White’s AW25 collection. Themed “State Of Resistance,” it featured Kamara’s fascination with Ghanaian symbols like stars and eagles, as well as West African art. The creative director also found inspiration in the strictness, discipline and homogenization of uniforms of London. In the shoulders of his designs, there is rigidity to exude strength, and there are architectural cuts that sculpt the body, particularly in the women’s looks. For the men, zippers, tweed, shredded denim, long jackets with hoodies and padded shoulders are poignant, exuding a boldness. Sitting front row were singers Ice Spice, Doja Cat, Jade Thirwall, Burna Boy and Yung Miami. Roger Vivier The Roger Vivier presentation brought Diana Agron, Olivia Colman and Yeji to the 12th arrondissement to see the new collection by creative director Gherardo Felloni. As guests arrived, they were met with a performance by the Corps de Ballet of the Opéra de Paris, for a small performance alongside Alice Renavand from the Étoile of the Opéra de Paris, to perform a choreography by Yvon Demol. Themed “La Rose Vivier,” Felloni dove into the timelessness of a flower that represents femininity and beauty. The Rose Vivier shoe is reimagined from its 1965 version, made in satin with a sculptural metal rose. While the Belle Vivier shoe is inspired by the archives and done in orange, violet, pink and burgundy as well as a striking leopard print on pony calfskin. The Virgule and Jewel heels are also new additions in the collection. Tom Ford had a smaller, more intimate affair, with an exclusive guest list. Among the attending were actor Jared Leto and singers Dove Cameron and Doechii. Inside the all gray show space, the illusion of misty windows invoked a mysterious intrigue. “Steamy mirrors all around bearing traces of the night before. Private rooms, in clubs, are the mysterious places where things happen that not everyone can access,” the brand’s creative director Haider Ackerman said in the show’s announcement notes. The idea of the collection and space is that such places of unattainability are charming and desired. Tom Ford is known, even when he was at Gucci, for his sensual sartorial style. Smart men’s looks add a pop of chic flair of a shirt and tie matched with leather pants and a tailored overcoat. The tailoring for the men’s and women’s looks is tight and sharp, leather is a strong influence, all shoes in the collection are pointy, and there are even a few glamorous dresses appropriate for the red carpet. Issey Miyake Satoshi Kondo was inspired by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm for the brand’s AW25 collection. Issey Miyake collections always have deep meanings and this one was no different. Its thesis according to collection notes is “ambiguity as an attempt to connect contrasting binaries in materiality, form and meaning.” Themed “[N]either [N]or,” the collection is divided into 10 categories that might make the clothing seem confusing or unsettling, but really are meant to provide a new aesthetic. The Paper Bag is one category of garments made from paper, nylon, cotton and polyurethane, and all pieces are based on a paper bag that is transformed into a garment. In the end, this collection allows the one wearing it to style it in one’s own way, discovering the newness in a garment. Victoria Beckham There’s a certain construction to Victoria Beckham garments that’s particularly alluring. And while there is construction, it’s effortless, flowing and classy. Her fashion is for the grown woman that’s confident and knows where she is going. Held at the old telephone exchange and post office in Paris’ 9th arrondissement, the old contrasted well with the modern essence of the brand. As guests entered they were met with candles spread on the ground on every floor level. Before the show, pre-cocktail drinks were served to guests as they mingled under muted lighting and candles, creating a romantic atmosphere. Attending were Victoria’s husband David Beckham, and their kids Romeo and Cruz. The collection is quintessential Victoria Beckham. The style of the silhouettes is the same style she wears in her everyday life. The most striking pieces in the collection were curled hemlines on overcoats, square-toed shoes and curled turtleneck sweaters. “Victoria Beckham expands her exploration of the way we dress – both literally and figuratively – in a study of the compulsions and coincidences that shape the clothing ceremony. The reflections are founded in personal experiences: the movements, tricks and happy accidents that sculpt our everyday wardrobes and personalities,” read the notes given by the brand. Evening gowns were also aplenty, constructed in an effortless way, but nonetheless striking. Vivienne Westwood At the end of the Vivienne Westwood show, creative director Andreas Kronthaler came out on stage carrying several bouquets of yellow flowers that he started throwing out to people in the audience as he received a warm ovation from the crowd. Sitting front row were Ice Spice, Chappell Roan, PinkPantheress and Jazelle Zanaughtti, and walking in the show was model Alton Mason, who starred in the film “Elvis.” The collection centers around the number 19, a number according to the brand that is synonymous with energy, expansion and a new start. “It encourages you to reach for your goals and dream big,” Kronthaler explained in collection notes. Originally from Austria, Kronthaler wanted to pay homage to London, his home of over 30 years, as well as pay homage to key people that inspire the collection from Quentin Crisp, Brigitte Bardot, Gertrude Stein, Cecil Beaton, Jerry Hall, Prince, Cary Grant, Rihanna and Vivienne Westwood herself. “Vivienne has taught me the love for tailoring and knitting,” Kronthaler said. “We always made it an anchor to every collection. Tailoring is an English invention; the formality it gives you is a framework to express yourself. There’s nothing more sexy than a suit!” With deconstructed silhouettes and tight tailoring — especially with suits — it’s a collection that combines Vivienne Westwood mainline with Andreas Kronthaler for the first time. In the men’s looks, Harris Tweed in various shades, Scottish tartan, and Yorkshire wool are poignant. Knits are seen in many of the looks and formality is contrasted with freedom of expression. One of the most creative shows during the fashion week is Coperni that was held live during a LAN party. A LAN (local area network) party is when a collective group comes together with computers and game consoles under a local network to play multiplayer video games. The show was held on Sunday night at the Adidas Arena, where some events for the 2024 Paris Olympics were held. As guests arrived, they were met with hotdog stands and popcorn before settling into their seats to see a new collection that is a reimagining of the raw energy of 1990s LAN parties. On the floor of the arena were 200 gamers mixed in with guests, creating a robust internet culture with underground vibe. The most striking look is the red puffer gown. “The Coperni woman is multifaceted, seamlessly switching between identities. Like a video game, the show unfolds unpredictably — each sequence a new level, every transformation a shift in play,” the brand notes read. Creative Director Sébastien Meyer’s sartorial creations include sharp shoulders, oversized tailored jackets with elasticated hand straps that gives way to formality, distressed denim, hints of the grunge era, poetic dresses and asymmetrical zipped parka jackets. The collection is young and fun, and told in a unique way. While March saw the debut of three new creative directors: Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten and Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, the September season is sure to be a big one with more newly appointed creative directors presenting new collections. When John Galliano left Maison Margiela on Dec. 11, he teased in his exit announcement that he would announce his new venture soon. Could the Paris runway see the iconic designer present a collection in September? We’ll have to wait and see. Bottega Veneta’s former creative director Matthieu Blazy will be helming Chanel, so many will be attentive to his September show. There are whispers that Pier Paolo Piccioli, who was most recently at Valentino, may be heading to Fendi after Kim Jones’ exit. And Michael Rider who was formerly at Polo Ralph Lauren will be heading up Celine. This year is going to be quite the fete as fashion is trying to organize itself. As the autumn-winter 2025 fashion season is drawing to a close, it’s a reminder of how much talent one creative director can possess. The way Haider Ackerman infused strong hints of sensuality in business attire looks in the Tom Ford collection is nothing short of fascinating. And, this season we’re reminded from Casablanca, Issey Miyake, Vivienne Westwood, Coperni and many others that formality is so last season. When it comes to dress, the rules can be changed.