The main lodge of Wilderness Bisate Reserve and the volcano Mount Sabyinyo in the background Wilderness Safaris If you’re lucky, you can look down the hill from Wilderness Bisate Reserve in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park and see mountain gorillas in the fields below. They’re usually in the forest nearby, to be viewed close up in organized, thrilling, hour-long treks either on ground level or up in the mountains. Sometimes, though, they wander out to farmers’ lands. It’s evidence of the growth of the gorilla population, the most famous draw now to this central African nation that in a darker time, 30 years back, was known for something else. .(Photo by Dong Jianghui/Xinhua via Getty Images) Xinhua News Agency via Getty Images Kigali’s Dark Past In the 1990s, it was genocide, the 100 day siege in 1994 in which nearly a million citizens-ethnic Tutsis and moderate Hutus- were killed amid a civil war. Scars obviously remain from such a traumatic occurrence, but much reconciliation and healing have been achieved with a conscious effort by the population to move forward. There are several memorials around the country with the largest, the Kigali Genocide Memorial in the capital, an extensive, moving collection of exhibits that lay out the history and the horrors in explicit detail along with a marble monument to a mass grave. With that as background, it wouldn’t be surprising if Kigali had a depressed edge but the city today is a lively, safe, energetic and due to volunteer efforts, extremely clean city with a lively dining scene with creative restaurants such as Repub Lounge and a vibrant art scene with galleries such as Niyo Art Center showcasing exuberant, multicolored depictions of wildlife. The lounge of the main lodge with views of volcanoes at Wilderness Bisate Reserve, Wilderness Safaris Bisate Reserve’s Design And Views To see the real wildlife, you drive on very good roads through verdant, hilly, extraordinarily beautiful countryside from Kigali. Bisate Reserve, which opened in September, is a three hour drive to the western stretch of the Northern Province and even if it weren’t the gateway to gorilla visits, it would be worth staying there for the design and the views. The look of the main lodge and four spacious villas were inspired by the royal palaces of Rwandan monarchs using materials such as thatch, timber, hand-chipped volcanic rock, exposed brick and basketry and design details including bold circular ceiling carvings, chairs embellished with embroidery, ridged ceramics and emerald green recycled glass droplet chandeliers. Located high on a hilltop surrounded by foliage, the view is of the six surrounding dormant volcanoes sometimes edged with mist. It shares this vantage point with its nearby sibling, Bisate Lodge which opened in 2017, but the design and size are leveled up, more expansive and opulent than the earlier lodge. The interior of one of the four villas of Wilderness Bisate Reserve. Wilderness Safaris Meals here showcase the spices of central African cuisine but also veer into Indian and Southeast Asian, favorites of the chef. The menu changes every day but features dishes such as a slightly spicy laksa, the Malaysian noodle soup, an Indian fish curry, chili and lime chicken, tilapia tortellini with charred corn and peanut salsa and lamb and aubergine curry, all delicious. The staff is also extraordinarily warm and cossetting, from dressing you at daybreak with rain gear and protective gaiters for the gorilla excursion to walking you back to your villa at night. Understanding Gorillas To learn more about mountain gorillas and the legacy of famed gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey who set up her research station Karisoke here between two of the volcanoes, the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund is nearby featuring video presentations of gorilla family dynamics, a reconstruction of Fossey’s cabin and panels describing specific gorillas. You can also plant trees on the hillside near Bisate Reserve to grow as future nutrition for the gorillas: 600 of the estimated 1100 population live in Rwanda with the others across the borders in the mountains of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. A government plan is underway to buy the land of local villagers and move them to model villages, opening up additional territory for the gorillas to move in, not just do an early morning stroll on a farmer’s land. Hippos in Lake Rwanyakazinga outside the tents at Magashi. Wilderness Safaris A Rwanda Wildlife Safari On the other side of the country, the eastern stretch bordering Tanzania, safaris of the more traditional type associated with that neighbor, Kenya and the countries of southern Africa are also now a solid feature of Rwanda wildlife viewing. Akagera National Park, the largest wetland in Africa, has experienced a growth in the animal population due to conservation repopulation efforts including the reintroduction of lions, black rhinos, white rhinos, elephants and Masai giraffes and the elimination of poaching. There are also 80 leopards, herds of zebra, antelope and buffalo and hundreds of bird species; estimates of the animal population now approximate 12,000, an increase from 5000 15 years ago. A tent at Magashi looking out at the lake. www.photosafari-africa.net A Safari Camp On A Private Concession Wilderness also operates a camp of very high standards, Wilderness Magashi, on a private concession within Akagera which means that only its guests are roaming the savannah observing the animals. There are presently six tents lined up along Lake Rwanyakazinga in which resident hippos provide the background soundtrack of chortling, grunting and snoring. The meals are also top quality with options changing daily, and the guides such as the knowledgeable and warmhearted Assit are also elite. But a spinoff is in the process of taking shape. Wilderness Magashi Peninsula, a private compound in a secluded waterfront location nearby containing a two bedroom villa with a lounge area and pool and two additional one bedroom cottages will feature more elevated design on the level of Bisate Reserve, bespoke dining experiences, a selection of wellness treatments and star beds for sleeping under the stars. It’s slated to open in September. The main villa at the upcoming Magashi Peninsula. Wilderness Safaris How to organize a trip: The travel organizer Yellow Zebra Safaris is adept at pulling together a complete, smooth itinerary with flight arrangements, meet and greets at the airport, road transfers, gorilla permits and lodge bookings. In Kigali, they can also arrange sightseeing, shopping and restaurant outings and hotel accommodations at either the very efficient Kigali Marriott Hotel or the atmospheric urban resort The Retreat by Heaven which has suites arranged around a central pool and an exceptional restaurant serving international and local dishes. More From Forbes ForbesA Hands-On Safari In A Magical Place: Giraffe Conservation In NamibiaBy Laurie WernerForbesWilderness Mokete Is The Secluded, Luxe New Lodge To Try In BotswanaBy Laurie WernerForbesWildlife, Maasai Culture And Local Food On A New Kenya Culinary SafariBy Laurie Werner ForbesMicato Safaris Launches A Trip To View—And Help—Elephants In KenyaBy Laurie Werner Editorial StandardsForbes Accolades