This was obviously aimed at players of the faint-hearted, fair-weather variety, not seasoned practitioners of our redoubtable calibre. Admittedly, with the nights drawing in, we were heading to the country's northernmost reaches to indulge our passion for a weather-dependent outdoor pursuit. Like countless others before us, we'd been seduced by the promise of immaculate courses, fringed with unspoiled sandy beaches and coconut-scented gorse. In truth, the prospect of four rounds of links golf – free of fairway mats and winter greens – was all the encouragement we'd needed at this time of year. And so, with waterproofs and thermals packed, and Storm Ashley apparently waiting in the wings, we'd embarked on our 400-mile round trip from Edinburgh to the east coast of Sutherland. Our visit had been organised by Highland Coast Hotels, a small independent hospitality group offering a range of itineraries, including bespoke golfing packages. Its collection of six traditional Scottish properties are dotted along the North Coast 500 – the 516-mile touring route that connects many of the region's most scenic and iconic sights. We'd decided to create our own little golfing trail by joining the green dots between the courses of Brora, Golspie, Tain and the world famous Royal Dornoch. Ready to embrace the more relaxed pace of life, the rest of the itinerary had been left clear for leisurely walks and visits to castles and distilleries, should the urge take us. The first stop for our two-centre break was the Royal Marine Hotel in Brora. An hour's drive north of Inverness, it's hard to imagine this quiet coastal village was known as the industrial capital of the north in the late 19th century, famous for its coal mining, salt panning, distilling, tweed production and electricity generation. Now it's an ideal base for visitors looking to explore the region's lochs, glens and mountains and Brora's renowned James Braid designed golf course. One of 21 en suite rooms, our spacious deluxe double – overlooking the tiny harbour – had a relaxed Celtic charm. In a toned-down alternative to the classic Scottish aesthetic, the room featured contemporary wooden panelling, in moody blues and mossy greens, with stylish mood lighting and subtle touches of earthy tartan and mustardy tweeds. The neat bathless bathroom, with a wonderful walk-in shower, was just as trendy. No Highland hotel would be complete without the obligatory stag's head and crackling log fire, and the cosy communal areas didn't disappoint. Meals are served in the smart, but informal, Curing Yard restaurant, where you can dress for dinner or feel just as at home in golf gear. Once a private home, the hotel has been carefully refurbished to enhance its impressive original features. The entrance to Brora Golf Club, a course featuring on many a bucket list, is just 200 yards away. On a sunny and windy October morning, it was both beautiful and challenging. Reputed as one of golf's most authentic experiences, the naturally contoured links have another claim to fame that many will be unaware of. To the delight of tourists – and the consternation of some members – local farmers still use the land to graze Highland cattle, exercising their rights under ancient crofting laws. Don't be perturbed by the small electric fences that protect the greens or the long-horned, shaggy-coated beasts that roam the fairways. The fencing is discreet and the Hielan' coos practically strike a pose at the sight of a mobile phone. The following day, the arrival of Ashley – the first named storm of the season – presented the chance to visit Dunrobin Castle, historic home of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland, dating back to 1275. It was an opportunity to find out more about the First Duke of Sutherland (1758-1833), whose imposing hilltop statue dominates the skyline for miles around from nearby Ben Bhraggie. One of Europe's richest and most powerful landowners in his day, the Duke was notorious for his role in the Highland Clearances when thousands of crofters were evicted from their homes in the advance towards industrialisation. The sun returned and we headed to Golspie, another of James Braid's wonderful creations, this time combining classic links and heathland holes. With crashing waves throwing seaweed and spray onto the opening holes, our late afternoon round was a spectacular test of golfer versus the elements. Windswept and pleasantly weary, we retreated to the comfort of the Royal Golf Hotel in Dornoch, base for the second half of our trip. After the modern elegance of the Royal Marine, the accommodation had a more traditional, lived-in feel and the unmistakable buzz of a golfers' rendezvous. At the heart of the hotel is an inviting bar, boasting big sink-into sofas, an open log fire, large TV screen and an impressive collection of whiskies. As with its sister hotel, the menu revolves around seasonal local produce, with favourites such as beer-battered haddock and chips, venison loin and steaks from the grill, all served up by the friendliest of staff. The welcome aside, it's the hotel's location, overlooking the first tee at Royal Dornoch Golf Club, that makes it stand out. Together with its restaurant, Crenshaw's Brasserie, most of the 22 suites and bedrooms enjoy views across the first and 18th holes to the Dornoch Firth beyond. Construction of the club's new £14m clubhouse was well underway and scheduled for completion next year, with no impact on play. Tucking into a full Scottish breakfast, we watched a procession of players and caddies striding along the opening hole, before heading out ourselves. Our faith in the Scottish weather was rewarded with a bright and breezy morning – sunlight bouncing off shimmering water to show undulating fairways at their best. The world's most northerly championship links, golf has been played here for more than four centuries and the game has become intertwined with the community itself, supporting an array of bars, cafes and gift shops. There's a lot more to the town than the golf course, however, highlights being its historic cathedral and an up-market shopping destination in the form of Dornoch Jail. Heading south to Ross-shire to begin the journey home, we stopped off at Tain, another of the courses recommended for those making the pilgrimage to Dornoch. More quirky than its prestigious neighbour, it too was designed by Old Tom Morris, with deep pot bunkers and tricky hazards making for an all-round test of skills. From the finishing holes, Glenmorangie Distillery – legendary home of the 16 men of Tain – came into view. Where better to raise a hip flask to toast a memorable break? We'd felt the autumn sun on our backs and enjoyed the warmest of Highland hospitality. Worth every mile. Highland Coast Hotels offers a range of golf play & stay packages. From March 2025 prices start from £588 per person. For more information or to book, visit www.highlandcoasthotels.com Julie Douglas stayed at the Royal Marine Hotel, Brora and the Royal Golf Hotel, Dornoch.
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