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The hour-long train journey in Wales that will take your breath away
@Source: walesonline.co.uk
I've been privileged in my job to have been asked to travel the length and breadth of Wales by train, discovering the stunning landscapes that our nation offers along its historic railway lines. From Llanelli to mid Wales on the Heart of Wales line and from mid Wales to the Llŷn Peninsula are two of the finest journeys, but nothing quite compares to what I experienced as I sped along the Vale of Rheidol Railway – a journey that takes you deep into the heart of the Cambrian Mountains and to one of the most iconic tourist attractions in all of Wales. This railway has been operational for 123 years, having first opened its doors way back in 1902. It was initially constructed to serve local communities and to transport lead and timber, but for the majority of the last century it has been used by tourists to marvel at the breathtaking views. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here . My starting point: Aberystwyth . My destination: Devil's Bridge. A mere 12 miles apart, the journey onboard a century-old train carriage takes an hour. Fear not, I'm a west Wales native – I'm well accustomed to train rides taking longer than anticipated. But today, for once, I'm not grumbling. This journey, with its beauty magnified on a glorious sunny day, could have lasted all day. Parking is available directly outside the Vale of Rheidol Railway station, or if you're coming from the town's main railway station, simply bypass the platforms and take a brief stroll down a gravel path until the sight of the steam train greets you. Once aboard, the choo-choos signal the start of your journey as steam billows into the air alongside your covered but open carriage, instantly whisking you back in time and creating the sensation of starring in a vintage film. Swiftly passing a football pitch, then a cricket pitch, I soon find myself immersed in the heart of my journey, accompanied solely by trees, fields and streams as I glide through a stunning valley flanked by hills on either side. The route features several stops, each meticulously maintained with signage proudly displaying names such as Glanyrafon, Capel Bangor , Nantyronen, Aberffrwd, and Rhiwfron. Approximately 40 minutes into the journey the scenery transforms from merely beautiful to truly spectacular as the carriage ascends and meanders to an elevation of 680ft above sea level. This vantage point offers a dramatic drop into the valley below and unveils a breathtaking view of the Afon Rheidol in all its glory as it expands into the Cwm Rheidol Reservoir. All the while, you sit back, high above, as though navigating the mountains of Italy. I had thought nothing could surpass the railway journey along the west coast to Pwllheli in Gwynedd , but this might just top it. I was lucky enough to have taken the train during a marvellously sunny day, so I decided against taking a jacket. However, if you want to sit in the open carriages without windows – and you really should for the full experience – then perhaps bring a jumper as it can get a bit nippy as you're winding through the hills. After just under an hour of a truly stunning journey we arrived at the wonderfully named Devil's Bridge, or Pontarfynach in Welsh, which translates to 'The bridge on the Mynach'. Surprisingly, I had never been here before even though it feels like one of those places every Welsh person visits on a school trip. As you disembark from the steam train a short stroll takes you down to the main part of the village. This was once part of the Hafod Estate and owned by 18th-century MP Thomas Johnes, who built a small hunting lodge that has since been expanded and upgraded to become the Hafod Hotel. On a bright and sunny weekday numerous people can be seen opposite the hotel, relishing a pint of beer or a cup of coffee with the soothing sound of a cascading waterfall providing an idyllic backdrop. As you amble around the corner, you encounter the main attraction of Devil's Bridge – three bridges, stacked atop each other, towering over the Mynach and Rheidol streams. Nestled in the heart of the Cambrian Mountains are several options for those wishing to embark on a hike and truly earn that refreshing pint or warm pot of tea. Two walks commence from the apex of the three bridges themselves, accessible via turnstiles. One, costing £2 (you tap your card at the entrance), offers a brief walk beneath the bridges and an opportunity to get up close to the rushing water. The other, priced at £4.75, is a longer and more challenging ramble deep into the Rheidol gorge, offering views of the 300ft Mynach waterfalls. It's a rare sight, seeing three bridges stacked above one another, but it lends this small village a unique charm. As for the builders – local folklore suggests the first was erected by none other than the devil himself. An information board you encounter as you descend from the train station tells the tale: "An old lady had found her cow had strayed across the river and was unable to get it back. The devil came along and promised her that he would build a bridge over the gorge for her. By way of payment the devil wanted to keep the first living creature that crossed over it, thinking that he would capture the old woman's soul." To cut a long story short, the woman tossed some bread to the other side and her dog dashed across the bridge, leaving the devil to settle for the soul of an animal instead. A more plausible explanation is that the original bridge was likely constructed by the monks of Strata Florida, a former Cistercian abbey 10 miles to the south, in the 12th century. The second bridge was then built in 1753 and the third (or top) bridge was erected in 1901. Following a delightful visit to a chocolate shop on my way back to the station, I hopped onto my return train bound for Aberystwyth. It had been an extraordinary day out, one that I'm surprised I hadn't experienced before. But I certainly will again in the near future. We're incredibly lucky here in Wales to have historic railway lines still in operation, transporting us directly into the heart of such breathtaking landscapes. Having embarked on several train journeys over the past few years, none offer more spectacular views than those seen on the Vale of Rheidol Railway.
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