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The vast, sandy beach in Gwynedd with a famous pub that has a dark history as refuge harbour
@Source: dailypost.co.uk
While some may draw comparisons to beaches in South Africa or Australia, there's truly nothing that matches the unique charm of Traeth Porthdinllaen in Gwynedd. This expansive sandy bay, nestled under the protection of Carreg Ddu headland in the northern part of Pen Llyn, has been a hidden gem for years, only recently gaining widespread recognition.
Whether you're visiting or simply scrolling through social media, it's hard to miss the constant stream of photos and videos capturing the beauty of this area. From TikTok clips featuring the beach and its renowned pub, Ty Coch Inn, it's clear that Traeth Porthdinllaen has captured the hearts of many, reports WalesOnline.
Count me among them. Over the years, this beach has become my go-to spot for a Boxing Day walk, an Easter holiday stroll, or a summer pint. Each visit reveals a new facet of its beauty, making it even more enchanting.
Please note that parking in the village of Porthdinllaen is reserved for residents. Visitors will need to park at the National Trust car park, which can be found by entering the postcode LL53 6DA into your sat nav, reports Wales Online.
But if you don't have a sat nav and you are travelling from the direction of Caernarfon, you can get here by following the A487 to Llanaelhaearn, turn right onto B4417, then turn right in Nefyn and towards Morfa Nefyn. If you are travelling from Pwllheli, follow B4412 signposted to Nefyn.
The car park is free for members of the National Trust, and while the pay and display machines only accept coins, you can pay online using PayByPhone. Before you get here, make sure you've brought extra coins with you or download the app.
Once you are at the car park, you can follow the footpath across the beach or through Nefyn golf club. Either way, you will be instantly hit by the breathtaking views the minute you embark on the walk. On the map, Porthdinllaen forms a hook shape on the northern tip of Pen Llyn, offering mesmerising views of Yr Eifl and the Eryri mountains on one hand, and then the vast sea on the other.
From the beach, a stroll along Traeth Morfa Nefyn will lead you past Bwlch-y-Brydun, a trio of buildings, and along a narrow strip of land curving into Traeth Porthdinllaen, where old ship buildings mark the entrance to the next beach. And the history of this area is just as compelling as the backdrop and dates back to the Iron Age.
Porthdinllaen was initially a fishing port and was once in competition with Holyhead to become the main route to Ireland. The village very nearly took the title, when a parliamentary bill approved new buildings in the area in May 1806.
It was nearly as far west as Holyhead, but the town of Ynys Mon had superior accessibility due to Thomas Telford's road developments. The Porthdinllaen Harbour Company was formed in 1808 in anticipation, but sadly, the bill to designate the village as a harbour for Irish trade was turned down in 1810.
As you walk across Porthdinllaen, you may spot that it is a sheltered north-facing bay, which played an integral part in the development of the village. It evolved into a significant refuge harbour and a thriving port. In 1861 alone, more than 700 ships sailed through its port.
During storms on December 2 and 3 in 1863, around 18 ships seeking shelter in Porthdinllaen bay were driven ashore and wrecked. With the aid of four men, Robert Rees of nearby Morfa Nefyn tied a rope around his waist and succeeded in saving a total of 28 lives.
Following this incident, the local parish priest wrote a letter to the RNLI, requesting a lifeboat be stationed in the harbour. The boatshed and slipway were established in 1864, costing only £140. The lifeboat station still stands here.
Another building that has stood the test of time is Ty Coch Inn. This gorgeous, red pub was built in 1823 and is surrounded by a cluster of buildings. When you've walked for a good 20 minutes across the beach, you will find this pub, often busy on most days, with locals and visitors alike with a drink in hand, while children are running around and dogs busy digging holes in the sand.
It feels like there is always a sense of community here, but the community changes every day. Interestingly, during the pub's initial five years, it served as the vicarage for the vicar of nearby Edern. In 1828 however, a new vicarage was built next to the church.
Eventually, Ty Coch stopped serving as the second vicarage when Reverend John Parry Jones Parry moved out entirely. But his housekeeper, Catherine Ellis, converted the building into an inn in 1842 to serve the shipbuilding workforce who worked on the beach.
At that time, Ty Coch was one of five pubs on the beach, but today, it stands as the only remaining pub. And its owner, Stuart Webley, was born and raised here after his parents ran the pub before him. "It's not a job, it's a way of life," he told me when I visited Ty Coch Inn in March. "This place means everything to me." You can read Stuart's interview here.
The best thing to do when you get to Ty Coch Inn is to order your favourite tipple, a Ploughman's lunch from the menu and sit down on the beach to soak up the views as you unwind. Bring a picnic blanket if you like, or a towel if you have plans of dipping your toes in the water. The nearby picnic benches outside the pub can get quite busy pretty quickly, but keep a close eye for one that could become empty.
The beach also offers splendid coastal views, intriguing rock pools, and a glimpse into the lives of local fishermen. The surrounding sea has been designated a Special Area of Conservation, while the coastline is recognised as a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to its abundant sea and birdlife.
The soft cliffs of Porthdinllaen are home to nesting sand martins and cormorants, with oystercatchers and other coastal birds often spotted in the area. The headland is also frequented by local grey seals, and one of north Wales' largest seagrass meadows lies beneath the water, providing a habitat for various fish species. And look out for the pub cats - a grey and white one and a ginger one. You'll often find them in and around the pub, unphased by the hundreds of people that come flocking to their home.
And if you are looking for a hidden corner of this fantastic location, continue on the marine trail, carry on past Caban Griff, which is a small information point, along the footpath leading across the rocks. Then, you will go up a steep slope, past the lifeboat station onto the Nefyn golf course. Here you'll see a fantastic view across the bay.
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